Any firearm needs proper care. Everyone knows this, but not many have the idea of how to clean your gun properly, what tools and lubricants to use. Unfortunately, ignorance of the rules and sequences of care can end badly for the shotgun system and individual parts.
To avoid innuendo, we will immediately say that there are many legends, myths, and opinions in this area of knowledge. The most radical of them: cleaning weapons are harmful. It is usually adhered to by those who ruined the trunk or the shuttered group by wrong actions, for example, the wrong choice of lubricant. Or – you’ll laugh – the owners of models with complicated disassembly/assembly and access to the treasury.
The author belongs to the group of “moderates” who believe that excessive fascination with cleaning-lubrication, especially without a critical understanding of the essence of processes, also does not lead to good. This is mainly due to long experience, when at the disposal of shooters were kerosene (then spray WD-40), alkaline composition, and neutral oil. The weapons used by these components have served and have served for decades, failing for reasons unrelated to the chemistry and frequency of hygiene procedures. I note, however, that all this applies to serial domestic guns, albeit high-class, as well as civilian versions of the army shooter – OP-SKS, “Tiger,” numerous “kalashoids.”
With the advent of specialized chemistry on our shelves, especially aerosol chemistry, it is still more simplified. Let’s say, and the same legendary “Ballistol” allows after a busy shooting and rain of the day to wipe all the iron, pour it outside and inside with this spray and do nothing more to worry about until the house, were already engaged in cleaning in a more comfortable environment.
And finally, “maximalists,” most often fans of high-precision shooting. People of such a warehouse practice thoroughness in everything. They usually prefer a compact, but still a center for cleaning. For example, such as in the photo, extremely inexpensive Portable Maintenance Centre.
And it’s hard to disagree with them. See how well-thought-out and conveniently done it is.
When you read the recommendations of the adherents of the “high-precision,” you marvel at the perseverance and scrupulousness, a purely scientific approach to the removal of different types of pollution. Can you imagine what practical experience and surgical consistency of movements it is necessary to have with the help of abrasive pastes to remove the slowing on match trunks!? In the arsenal of their techniques, for example, the selection of chemicals for cleaning different chamber areas, techniques that involve special cleaning after each shot, the use of substances neutral to one barrel, but literally dissolving the metal of others. In short, if there is a burning desire to become a real shooter “Benchrest,” do not engage in guerrilla work – get out of the woods to people and join the team of like-minded professionals. Moreover, “Benchrest” does not happen without regular competitions.
For the bulk of people, it is all somewhere on the other side of good and evil. Therefore, let’s be guided by the condition known from mathematics as “necessary and sufficient.” Not stopping at the basics of preliminary procedures, such as the need to discharge and disassemble weapons, prepare all the necessary accessories, etc.
Key steps in cleaning weapons
- pouring alkaline composition (solvent) of everything and everything that came into contact or could come into contact in the process of shooting with a capsule, casing, bullet, and, of course, gunpowder gases;
- Cleaning itself;
- grease the weapon.
The vast majority of cases and not exclusive weapons are enough already mentioned “Ballisol” or the well-known “Hoppes No. 9”.
The first is extremely convenient to use because it is made in the form of an aerosol, quite successfully copes with all pollution, including ossification and slowing, and is absolutely safe. And not only for the tree or plastic bed, but also for your hands. Moreover, according to the manufacturer and numerous users, it has a bactericidal and generally terribly beneficial effect on the skin. “Hoppes,” on the other hand, is very toxic, so the author does not like its relatively rare aerosol variant. The dose can be grasped even in the fresh air. His direct responsibilities cope perfectly, perhaps, better than “Ballo slate.”
There are still a lot of modern drugs of similar action. There are much more effective, for example, compositions Shooter’s Choice, but many of them are narrowly specialized. For example, they can only be used for stainless steel trunks. If you have such, not to mass, weapons, carefully study the recommendations of the manufacturer.
So, the composition of our chosen is applied to all the places to be cleaned – the trunk channel, the shutter, the mirror (at the smooth-bore), the parts of the gas drain, the trunk outside – 5-6 centimeters from the cut. Leave all the farm to water for 10-20 minutes.
Proper cleaning of weapons
Here we will need tools closely related to the features of weapons. Let’s look at it in detail.
Shampoo for cleaning a gun
Once, it has been said that for a rifled weapon, it should be whole, for smooth-bore – no difference, but more often composite. The approach is correct, considering the caliber. There is little that can happen in a long tube, the internal diameter of which is less than a centimeter, so the requirements for strength characteristics in the first case are increased.
The material of the school is also different. For smooth-bore, quite suitable wood, brass, for sliced only metal, necessarily in the braid, although on sale there are strong on the bend and at the same time relatively safe stainless steel products. In any case, do not use aluminum devices. Covering their oxide on abrasive properties will not yield to the crushed brick.
Another prerequisite for rifled trunks: the shampoo itself should rotate freely on the bearing installed in the handle so that cleaning devices in the return-forward movement went strictly on cuts.
The left is a smooth-bore caliber, two-section, 86 cm long, complete with a classic SL nozzle. On the right, the shampoo for the rifled arms .35 cal., 9 mm and above, single-section, with a bearing, length of 91 cm.
Visher and patches
The cartridge and the barrel cut are “sacred cows,” and they should be treated accordingly. Therefore, the movement of the school with the rubbing material (patch) always goes in one direction – from the Dziennik to the muzzle. The introduction itself should be elegant, and the contaminated patch on the way out of the trunk is necessarily removed from the cherry. It is very convenient to do it with cherries of modern design.
Сравните: слева классический тип, знакомый практически всем стрелкам, справа – латунный .22/.223 кал
Agree. The latter is very convenient to impale a branded or homemade patch (a square or round piece of cotton fabric selected under the caliber). At the exit of the trunk, fall off and fall into a carefully substituted vessel.
The reverse movement should be no less careful not to damage even the soft brass edges of the cuts at the cut of the trunk. This will result in the loss of the city of any rifled weapon, including pneumatic weapons.
Smooth-bore cut defects also won’t add accuracy. And the visher here willy-nilly will have to use the traditional, in the slot of which runs and loosely twists a suitable in size rag.
Several ambiguous devices just serving to protect the cartridge, bullet entrance and cut the barrel of the rifled weapon.
Pictured are guides .30 ABS3 and .30 C30.
Let’s start with the second one, to cut the barrel. The scope of its application is extremely narrow, mainly for some models, and all because, as we remember, the barrel is cleaned only from treasury to muzzle. There are rifles where the manufacturer, as if on purpose, did everything to make it difficult to access the cazeneuve. But even here, it is better not to resort to the 180-degree upside-down technology.
Guides inserted instead of a shutter, according to reputable shooters, with rare exceptions, do not give an accurate centering of the school because they are made universal under a certain caliber. Meanwhile, each rifle has its own characteristics. In short, it is easier to protect the strom from dripping reagents and to center the shampoo on the eye; the main thing is not to hurry and not to be nervous. Or thoughtfully, again without haste, to pick up a guide strictly under his weapons.
Nashik for cleaning a gun
There are also enough nuances. In principle, you should remember two things: do not use soft polymer brushes (not to be confused with “puffs”), generously singing everywhere torn bristles and steel ruffs for slicing trunks: only hard nylon and copper or brass. For smooth steel when removing the screed and hard snout, the use of steel mesh devices is quite acceptable.
In the photo: brass ruffs and hard nylon under .30 and 12 calibers, as well as puffing, which serves both for greasing and excess oil removal.
There are still ruffs for cleaning the cartridge. As a rule, they go as part of cleaning kits but can be purchased separately, even on a handle.
And one more important rule: ruffs are used only on dry. Otherwise, they are immediately covered with abrasive particles and only aggravate the destruction of the trunk’s mirror.
Without this device, you definitely can not do it. In fact, it is a miniature hybrid of a spatula and toothpick carved from wood. It is them, sometimes with a rag, you will clean the dirt from the hidden places, which in the arms is enough, or carefully remove the remnants of copper from the mirror of the end of the barrel box (where the boys).
The final stage of weapons cleansing
Different details depending on the configuration wipe with a stick, sponge, rag. After the disappearance of the contaminants, wipe dry, abundantly smear with a neutral oil, wipe again, and now grease, as it is called, a thin layer. A little dripping into the holes of the brisket smoothed. Competition causes manufacturers to move and produce a wide range of solvents and oils. If you want to support them and do everything on the “fan,” you can buy and use lubricant, say, separately for stems or shutter stops or something else in the same spirit. But, by and large, even domestic neutral rifle oils, the same “Berkut,” are quite workable.
Blessed are the owners of classic shotguns and other biplanes, as well as modern semi-automatics. The rest is more difficult – the trunk will not be unbuttoned, and here could help the already mentioned brand center for cleaning. The basic rule: in the machine or just on the table, the barrel should look down so that all the nastiness did not flow into the weapon’s mechanisms.
So, we heat up on a visher patch (twist a rag) and drive the school forward in one leisurely movement. Discard the contaminated patch, carefully remove the school—alternate patches with ruffs (only on dry trunks). We clean the cartridge with rotational movements, in any case, not trying to push a special ruff into the bullet entrance. If necessary, treat the trunk with a cleaning compound again.
And so, until we get the result. Professionals carefully assess pollution, applying specialized chemistry depending on their types.
For an ordinary shooter, all this is more interesting in theory. Or when the ammunition changes. So you can say, “This is dirty!” and don’t mess with him anymore.
The task we have is simple: regardless of whether the copper is blue on the patches or the matte remnants of polyethylene casings are found, it is necessary to ensure that the cleaning material on the output is not different from what was at the entrance. That’s it. Depending on the degree of contamination, all procedures can take ten minutes and an hour.
Finally, the patches appear from the trunk virginally clean. And it’s the turn of neutral oil. By and large, we remove them not so much dirt as the remnants of cleaning substances, including metal micropores. Suspicious traces will reappear on the patches. After their disappearance, a thin layer of neutral oil is applied to the dry trunk with a slightly greased patch, a rag, a puff. Or the canning staff- depending on your goals and objectives. For example, Rust Prevent Corrosion Inhibitor or Elite Hoppe’s GO4.
It is highly desirable to repeat the second cleaning stage (with neutral oil) of a day in three to four, a maximum of a week. That’s how much, on average, the e-flow of residues of contaminants from the deepest microfractures continues.
I want to repeat it. In a timely weapon variety, carefully read the manufacturer’s recommendations if you have, say, a stainless or chromium-molybdenum barrel. And choose cleaning trains, especially aggressive, exclusively in line with them. Do not always trust opinions from the Internet. If you read carefully, they often contradict each other. In short, be careful and careful.